introduction
Hyacinth vases are designed to carry a hyacinth bulb in the upper part of the vase, usually called the cup. The lower part has the function of water reservoir in which the roots can grow. Since the start of forcing of hyacinths on glass with water, around 1730 or even earlier, thousands of different types of glasses have been developed, reflecting changing artistic styles, and including unique, hand painted vases as well as simple manufactured ones, produced by the million.
Model Elvira from the Stella glasswork, Maastricht, Holland, about 1910. This model can be found both in Britain and Holland. It is assumed that many vases were produced for the British market.
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Various models of press glass French hyacinth vases.
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Design of hyacinth vases
The cup should fit the hyacinth and give maximum support. This is not always easy and it often happens that big plants fall over. In Britain and Germany there are examples of vases that are designed in such a way that an iron support can be placed around or inside the special rim of the vase and hold the plant. Usually old hyacinth vases have a shorter rim than newer vases.
which vase should you use
The part between the cup and the reservoir (the neck) prevents the bulb from falling into the vase. It should therefore not be too large. In 2001, together with my fellow-collector Frans Roozen it was possible to analyse the measurements of many hyacinth vases. Usually an inside neck diameter of 3.0 to 4.0 cm (1.2 to 1.6 in) is normal, with a minimum diameter of 2.5 cm (1.0 in) for smaller bulbs to a maximum of 4.5 cm (1.8 in) for the largest ones. Among collectors, often the question arises whether a certain vase is a real hyacinth vase or ‘just’ a flower vase. As for the neck, diameters smaller than 2.0 and bigger than 5.0 cms (0.8 to 2.0 in) are generally not considered to be hyacinth vases.
Different types of cups to hold the hyacinth bulb. From left to right: a Danish vase, an unknown vase, a free blown British vase, a Dutch (model Norma, design Rozendaal, Maastricht) and an unknown vase.
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Various models of Scandinavian origin.
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avoid the rotting of roots
The reservoir part should be big enough to give room to the roots and supply enough water. A large, low situated reservoir makes the vase steadier. The water contains the necessary oxygen for the roots. Too many roots and little water will sooner give bacterial and fungal diseases a chance to cause rotting of the roots. The reservoir for a larger size hyacinth bulb should contain 400 to 500 cc ( 0,4 to 0,5 litre, ca. ¾ pint) water, depending on the size of the bulb.
stable and sturdy
For a good vase, stability is very important, as the hyacinth plant grows to its maximum height and weight. The key factor is the foot, the bottom part on which the vase rests. Tall vases with a relatively small foot tip over easily, often damaging the plant and breaking the vase, while short vases with a broad foot—like the model Belle by Rimac—are perfect and will never fall over. The foot should measure at least 5.5 cm (2.2 in) for shorter vases and 8.0 cm (3.2 in) for taller ones. Hyacinth vases are usually 12–22 cm (4¾–8.5 in) high; taller ones are less stable or look disproportionate to the size of the forced hyacinths.
Stability is important. From left to right, the vases become less stable. From left to right: Model Belle ( Rimac, Holland), model 583 ( Leerdam, Holland), a free blown American vase, a free blown British vase, an unknown vase.
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unique hyacinth (bulb vases) and handmade oil paintings
The unique collection of hyacinth vases (bulb vases) belonging to Wim Granneman is for sale, as well as his handmade collection oil paintings, inspired by the vibrant flower bulb fields of the Bulb District (Bollenstreek) in Holland. The vase collection includes many more than shown on the website and is available as a whole or in sets, for instance by country of origin. Parts of the vase collection and oil paitings have been exhibited in various museums.
Interested? Please don’t hesitate to get in touch.